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Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 107 total)
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  • in reply to: Post your Pedalboard #114110
    KartoonHead
    Member
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    hm interesting. i’ve never really been fond of the appearance of most factory boards. i dislike velcro. i also don’t like to SEE the power supply. the only major issue i’d change right now would be the powering of my board most of them are powered by 2 regulated/filtered adapters daisychained. there’s really very little noise but i’m thinking i’d love a more professional power supply under there.

    I don’t like the velcro thing either. What I do is to keep an old pillow on top of the pedals to keep them in place when I’m not playing and transporting the pedal board. It fits perfectly and protects the pedals.

    This pedal board was the “EUREKA” sort of thing when I bought it!

    I’ll second that pillow idea, I use a big beach towel folded over a few times to get the right size to slip into the lid of the pedalboard. They don’t shift an inch in transit :)

    in reply to: So is XO taking over? #114104
    KartoonHead
    Member

    I’d love one of them Wigglers, but it’s a little outside of my price bracket for a modulation pedal.

    in reply to: Delay Pedals through Acoustic Instruments #114098
    KartoonHead
    Member

    The #1 Echo is a very simple digital delay, it won’t noticably colour your sound be it from a mic or your preamp, it’s a very straight forward hi-fidelity repeat.

    If your acoustic has a preamp I’d recommend putting the output of that through the #1 Echo and then into an acoustic guitar amplifier, mic the amp up as well your acoustic and mix the two together to taste. This will give you the best possible sound in a studio situation.

    KartoonHead
    Member

    Wikipedia says there is, and Wikipedia is God*.

    ‘A latching relay has two relaxed states (bistable). These are also called “impulse”, “keep”, or “stay” relays. When the current is switched off, the relay remains in its last state. This is achieved with a solenoid operating a ratchet and cam mechanism, or by having two opposing coils with an over-center spring or permanent magnet to hold the armature and contacts in position while the coil is relaxed, or with a remanent core. In the ratchet and cam example, the first pulse to the coil turns the relay on and the second pulse turns it off. In the two coil example, a pulse to one coil turns the relay on and a pulse to the opposite coil turns the relay off. This type of relay has the advantage that it consumes power only for an instant, while it is being switched, and it retains its last setting across a power outage. A remanent core latching relay requires a current pulse of opposite polarity to make it change state.’

    *God may not exist, but Wikipedia definitely does, so it makes sense to worship Wikipedia over God.

    KartoonHead
    Member
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    Some pedals using relays (like the Behringer ‘Vintage’ series, which are just plain EHX copies) might still give you signal, the way to check these is to turn the pedal on, remove the power, then hit the bypass switch, if you aint got signal, you aint got true-bypass.

    what?
    wouldn’t hitting the byp. switch with a relay bypass just do nothing [like, you’d still have signal]?

    Precisely, if it’s got a relay switch and it’s turned on, when you pull out the power jack the relay will be stuck there, so hitting the bypass switch now will not actually bypass the effect as the relay requires power to switch. This leaves you with no bypassed signal, you can then identify it as not being true bypass.

    If you had however bypassed the effect and then removed the power jack, in that order (which works for identifying buffered-bypass pedals), you’d still have signal as the relay would be stuck in bypass, some might argue that this is as-good-as true-bypass, as how much colouration can going through a relay really have on your signal? But still, if you’re gonna be anal about one thing, let it be your tone XD

    Maybe I worded it funny :p

    no i’m pretty sure you’ve got it wrong. the relay would switch back to bypass because there’s no longer power applied to it. ie, with a TB pedal, you can still turn off the signal. with a relay pedal, it’s always on bypass if you don’t have power to it.

    And a relay can’t color your tone any more than a switch can.

    I’ve gone and looked it up and either one of us could be right, depending on whether it’s a latching relay or not. I assumed they’d be latching as you use latching mechanical footswitches for your standard bypass, but your theory sounds more sensible as it’s like an extra feature; if the power goes out the pedal automatically bypasses itself so you can keep playing.

    And I agree with the relay colouring your tone just as much as a switch does, but as soon as you say something isn’t true-bypass many-a-tone-freak will stick their head back in the sand.

    KartoonHead
    Member
    Quote:
    Quote:
    Some pedals using relays (like the Behringer ‘Vintage’ series, which are just plain EHX copies) might still give you signal, the way to check these is to turn the pedal on, remove the power, then hit the bypass switch, if you aint got signal, you aint got true-bypass.

    what?
    wouldn’t hitting the byp. switch with a relay bypass just do nothing [like, you’d still have signal]?

    Precisely, if it’s got a relay switch and it’s turned on, when you pull out the power jack the relay will be stuck there, so hitting the bypass switch now will not actually bypass the effect as the relay requires power to switch. This leaves you with no bypassed signal, you can then identify it as not being true bypass.

    If you had however bypassed the effect and then removed the power jack, in that order (which works for identifying buffered-bypass pedals), you’d still have signal as the relay would be stuck in bypass, some might argue that this is as-good-as true-bypass, as how much colouration can going through a relay really have on your signal? But still, if you’re gonna be anal about one thing, let it be your tone XD

    Maybe I worded it funny :p

    KartoonHead
    Member

    Well, the best way to see if your pedals are true-bypass or not is to turn them to bypass, and remove the power jack, and see if you still have signal. If not, it’s not true-bypass.

    Some pedals using relays (like the Behringer ‘Vintage’ series, which are just plain EHX copies) might still give you signal, the way to check these is to turn the pedal on, remove the power, then hit the bypass switch, if you aint got signal, you aint got true-bypass.

    in reply to: So is XO taking over? #114086
    KartoonHead
    Member

    Yea, the NY BMP should always stay ‘Big’, else suffer a substantial loss of mojo.

    in reply to: EHX 12AX7 Preamp as line level/bass preamp??? #114057
    KartoonHead
    Member

    The compression induced by the tube pre is really obvious there, sounds much smoother and more polished than the solid state pre you used.

    As for noise there’s not much you can do, you should however remember that low frequency tracks (like bass guitar) will always sound noisier than others as there simply is nothing much but noise higher up in the spectrum. In my experience all you need to do to mask this is have a high-mid track, be it vocal, guitar, cello, anything in that range, play simultaniously.

    Here’s an example; http://dl.dropbox.com/u/14392951/In_the_Middle_of_the_Night.mp3

    Loads of noise in the first bar when it’s just bass (it’s one of my tracks so I’m allowed to slag it off xD) but when other instruments come in at the start of the second bar; guitar, synth and BVs, the noise is barely noticable. By bar 4 when the drums come in you wouldn’t be able to tell there’s any noise there at all! And remember, those other tracks contain just as much noise! I used the same microphone and the same pre for all of the tracks, and all instruments are played through the same amp. With the obvious exception of the drums, which are sequenced, because 1-mic drum takes rarely go well.

    in reply to: EHX 12AX7 Preamp as line level/bass preamp??? #114050
    KartoonHead
    Member

    No worries! If it all goes according to plan (would you maybe please) upload some A/B’s between the EHX pre and a standard desk pre you have in your studio, would be nice to hear the sort of character it has :)

    in reply to: EHX 12AX7 Preamp as line level/bass preamp??? #114046
    KartoonHead
    Member

    Feeding it a line-level signal is unlikely to cause much upset as far as impedance is concerned, just so long as the output impedance of your DI box or whatever you’re sending into the preamp is lower than the input impedance of the EHX pre, which it will be.

    The only time you really need to worry about impedance is when going from pre to power amp, or chaining power amps, or connecting speakers. The difference it makes with low level signals going into high impedance preamps is negligible.

    Also, the output of a DI box is mic level, not line level, so going;

    Bass (or synth or anything!) -> DI -> EHX pre

    is absolutely fine.

    in reply to: simple review on a simple pedal—LPB-1 #114017
    KartoonHead
    Member

    Well it’s gonna have a master volume knob, so I could crank both LPB-1’s and then trim it to a respectable volume, and see if I can get some sort of overdrive out of it, the first one going full tilt into the second is bound to overload the second circuit and create some sort of distortion.

    Spose it’s kinda like going LPB1 > LPB1 > Signal Pad.

    in reply to: simple review on a simple pedal—LPB-1 #114012
    KartoonHead
    Member

    Is there any advantage to be gained from chaining two of these pedals?

    I built a pedal with an XO-LiBMP sized box with three knobs and two footswitches, it was two chained octave-up circuits (for footswitchable one/two octaves up), but it just wouldn’t work, I even went the extra mile of simulating it in software and it worked, but nevermind, that’s old news! I was wracking my brains thinking of what I could use the enclosure for, cuz it looks PIMP! Anyways, I ended up with the simple idea of two LPB-1’s. I don’t already have one, and I’ve seen loads of reviews like this one saying that they don’t simply boost your signal, but improve your whole sound, filling it out with extra harmonics (and all that stuff!). So, has anyone chained these before? If so, what does it sounds like with two in series?

    in reply to: Big Muff Pi with Tone Wicker buzzing #114011
    KartoonHead
    Member

    Yea, muffs buzz. They’ve got like 4 gain stages, 2 symetrical diode clipping stages (is that right? EHX boffins, please correct me if I’m wrong!) and turning up the sustain knob is the same as raising the gain, which of course raises the noise floor.

    Muffs have always buzzed and muffs always will buzz, it’s part of the charm :)

    in reply to: It’s my birthday so what pedal(s) should i get? #114004
    KartoonHead
    Member

    A lot of love for the English Muff’n goin on here, is it really that good? What sorta sounds can u get from it? Is it a potential Big Muff Pi upgrade?

Viewing 15 posts - 16 through 30 (of 107 total)