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  • Ned Flanders
    Moderator

    You can mod it to sound exactly like the original version very very easily. Yes, the original 1980s versions used either chip depending on what they had.

    SAD1024 or MN3007 makes no difference and considering the Reticon BBDs are obsolete, over a hundred bucks a piece if you can find them, and break easily, it’s simply not worth doing.

    Also, considering that your asking about it I’ll assume you don’t have the technical knowledge to do it. (I don’t intend to be rude…just saying what is obvious)

    The original version sound isn’t from the chip, but from other parts.

    I made a PDF of how to do it….at your own risk. It’s a simple paint by numbers process.

    Check my thread here:
    https://www.freestompboxes.org/viewtopic.php?t=31913

    Ned Flanders
    Moderator

    No problem.

    in reply to: Small Clone label “USA” #204514
    Ned Flanders
    Moderator

    They aren’t made in the USA anymore. That’s why they can’t say they are. EHX (and everyone else) has always used foreign parts in builds but many years ago they started having whole circuits made offshore. Basically almost every part of every pedal by all companies are foreign made. Love it or hate it it’s the world we live in now.

    As far as I’m aware, the silkscreening, assembly, program install for digital, alignment, and final testing is still done in NYC.

    in reply to: EHX HotTubes and TubeEQ Pedal – how are the Tubes set up? #204513
    Ned Flanders
    Moderator

    Just posting this comment in the interest of safety for all who may read it. If I’m reading it then others are reading it.

    The tubes run at full plate voltage (like tube amp voltages) and aren’t “diy friendly” effects. It’s not starved plate voltages like many tube pedals. Do not mess with the Tube pedals unless you know what you’re doing. If you know what you’re doing you’re not asking questions here. 😉

    What the tubes do is amplify.

    in reply to: I fried my electric mistress :-( #204507
    Ned Flanders
    Moderator
    Ned Flanders
    Moderator

    @fuzzbuzzfuzz

    The conversion to regular DC jack is simple. The 3054c runs on 9volts with a single supply (not bi-polar) so it’s very easy.

    Here’s some diagrams for you and anyone else. Only relevant to the Deluxe Big Muff 3054C model.
    They are messy, yes. They weren’t intended to share but for my own reference and so I’ve edited them with more info for you. Always work on pedal unplugged from mains voltage.
    I haven’t included how to install new power in any great detail as if you don’t know how that works then you shouldn’t be doing this modification.

    (Copy and paste images in new tab for larger version)

    Power:
    (Remove transformer and all associated wiring)
    Power

    True Bypass (no LED):

    DBMP

    in reply to: HELP!! Tall font Big Muff bypass HELP!! #204505
    Ned Flanders
    Moderator

    @oldandbrokenperfection

    Here you go, the original diagrams I drew up not quite 20 years ago. 😉

    The Russian switch has a different switching system to US, Japanese and every other countries switches.

    Follow these and you will be set.

    Sovtek

    Sovtek

    If you want to use the original switch and have an LED and have it true bypass then you’ll need to make and include this. However, you will still have to wire it for a Russian switch as above, not exactly as this shows.

    Millennium Bypass

    in reply to: Deluxe Big Muff timeline (serial # and changes) #204502
    Ned Flanders
    Moderator

    No idea, man. Kit Rae has possibly ignored the Deluxe for the same reason we don’t know… there’s hardly any info about them.

    I have only one deluxe among 12 big muffs; the last one – 3054C series-parallel. I’d like to know some info too. I did see your post on FSB as well.

    Mine has the 3080 compressor and sounds like crap. The muff sounds brilliant. I’ve removed the AC power supply and added a regular DC jack, true bypassed it, reflowed solder on all pots as two were intermittent, and I still need to recap all electros. Hopefully the compressor comes to life one it gets some fresh electros. Electros can dry out and should be replaced every couple of decades at least.

    I don’t know what year the 3054C was made and I haven’t got around to checking the pots on mine yet for a rough estimate (will do when I recap it) but I think it’s likely around 1979 – 1980.

    It’s hard to know for sure and in reality pot dates aren’t the best method for dating a pedal; however, it’s all we have.

    • This reply was modified 7 months, 2 weeks ago by Ned Flanders.
    • This reply was modified 7 months, 2 weeks ago by Ned Flanders.
    in reply to: Faulty EHX Mistress V2 #126363
    Ned Flanders
    Moderator
    Quote:
    I’ve built myself an audio probe and I have output at the SAD1024, but when I tweek VR2 to get a output it is very distorted.

    I’ve checked the output (Pin 1) of LM4558 and the distortion (almost fuzz tone) occurs here as well.

    Any ideas on what the cause could be? Any other places I could probe? there is some noticeable noise at the input jack, could the Op amp just be boosting this signal during the gain stage?

    Edit: I’ve just checked it at pin 7 and the distortion is there aswell, I’ve changed the LM4558 and it hasn’t made any difference.

    Personally, I feel that the best place to ask for help is here:

    https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/

    If you provide all the voltages, work you’ve done, things you’ve checked, etc. etc, then some of the guys will chime in and help you fix it.

    They are a very knowledgeable bunch over there (Some are electronics engineers with decades of experience) and also willing to help anyone.

    in reply to: Small Clone Identification #126463
    Ned Flanders
    Moderator

    If it was 80s I’d think it should say Mini Chorus, not full chorus….I don’t recall what year that changed

    Other than that, it does look legit

    in reply to: Battalion Distortion Inoperable #126443
    Ned Flanders
    Moderator

    Email them for repair.

    in reply to: Is this a Fake Big Muff? #126441
    Ned Flanders
    Moderator

    Indeed, it does look like a copy/fake. And one intended to fool the buyer.

    Knobs are wrong
    Black on the back of the unit appears to be paint when originals are vinyl over metal.
    Solder joints don’t look EH style. They look amateur.
    PCB looks wrong
    Screw holes are wrong.

    Etc etc.

    Pedals are the same regardless of the country and “Brazilian Only“ Big Muffs don’t exist. The only country specific feature is power supplies that plug into the wall, and they state it outright. Attempting to stop this sort of thing in South America (And Asia) would be an effort in futility. Close down one seller and he opens up again under a different address….you’d never find those responsible anyways, not in the 3rd world. The 3rd world has its own rules.

    NOTE: I’m posting this late reply for the good of everyone so fakes can be identified.

    For identifying authentic Big Muffs check out the following:
    http://www.bigmuffpage.com/

    in reply to: Big Muff Versions and Tone Differences #126440
    Ned Flanders
    Moderator
    Quote:
    Quote:
    I think Russian Muff look best when they appear to have gone through a war :)

    If you repaint, sand the case down and put some primer on it before you paint. It does not appear the St. Petersburg factory primed at all.

    Hi thank you so much for all your info,
    is there any chance you moght know the Color code or Color name for the Russian Big Muff Paint?

    I would love to repain the outercase in mine as it’s completely wrecked, but I don’t seem to find a similar kind of Green.

    It’s a Tall font green Big Muff

    Thank you so much

    Take it to a paint specialist and they can match it up for you and mix a spray can worth of the color you need…that’s if you have a bit of paint left on it.

    A tip before painting, prime it good and the paint will last for ever.

    Alternatively, search for “Camo colored paints” as the re-enactments guys use a lot of old army greens and so forth. You’ll likely not find it in a gloss but you can gloss clear over it.

    in reply to: Battalion Distortion Inoperable #126438
    Ned Flanders
    Moderator
    Quote:
    Hey folks

    I use a lot of EHX gear and so my natural inclination was to grab a battalion DI when I had a regular bass gig come up.

    It sounds great and I love it.

    But

    The entire distortion side of the pedal doesn’t work.
    The LED indicator works, but the sound does not change at all.

    I know that it DID work….but now it doesn’t. I’m wondering if I’m doing something wrong or if it’s messed up.

    Any and all help/advice, please!

    Jeff

    This might sound stupid, but have you double checked the vol knobs etc, and also that you’re plugged into correctly? I can’t remember how many times I’ve had a “D’oh” moment because of something simple like this.

    If you rule out user error email EHX.

    in reply to: So tri Parallel mixer… does not work #126432
    Ned Flanders
    Moderator
    Quote:
    so about a month ago i bought the tri Parallel mixer from prymaxe off their reverb store .. and after about a month I got it in the mail. I was excited to try but got busy .. anyways when the time came a few weeks later I set it up to see what it could do.. and to my surprise nothing happened. No signal through , just crackling when i used the dry and master volume knobs that’s it. I thought must be the cables or guitar or amp… nope tried all those but nothing changed. So I messaged prymaxe and they told me to contact EHX so I’m hoping that someone can help me out here. I already emailed EHX through one of their accounts but hoping that it was the one it needed to go to.

    Well heres a link of what the what pedal does in a short video

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1J_oXYsD4JHNiuzRvwwfJYPIKWDn_dhEi/view?usp=drivesdk

    Thanks for anything or help that anyone can give me

    Ehh, I’m so sick of retailers denying any responsibility for their goods after the sale. They immediately push the problem off to someone else. They sold you a faulty product so they should immediately replace it and deal with EHX themselves. After all, they don’t need to use the product immediately whereas the Musician/consumer does. The consumer is treated like trash these days; I experience it myself.

    It’s just another sign of the times; money is king and greed rules many men’s hearts.

    I would try to get another from them…and I would tell them they have a responsibility to their customers, if they flat out refuse then tell EHX and claim warranty for a replacement.

    This simply isn’t good enough!

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 897 total)