If all else buy another one. They’re not that expensive (they were cheaper before the OMFG Billy Corgan used an op-amp Big Muff!!!!! thing. last one I bought cost $90)

They are getting more expensive, I agree. I got mine for 100 bucks in 08. Now that everyone is like you said, “OMFG, O M F G, Billy corgon used a V4 opamp muff, I MUST have one” thing happened they will only get dearer.

*shakes head at peoples stupidity*

I still wana get another one before they get ridiculous in price.

Really kit should have said NOTHING about it IMO! He has inadvertently ruined it for collectors wanting IC muffs.
All you need to do is look at the sovtek price hike phenomenon and the fact the people were convinced corgan used these(I stillse people advertising such on ebay), also they knew gilmour used them too, it all contributed to the hype around them.  And they are more hype than good sounds IME/IMO, just like triangle muffs….most suck,some are brilliant, I only need to see gut shots of them tell this, and which will be boomy pieces of junk and which will be smooth woolly beasts etc etc!

Thanks for the advice guys!!! I did the solder across the cracked board and got it to work. Thanks for everyones help. I also noticed that I had purchased another IC (op amp) version and for some reason or another my older one has way more sustain ...feedback and such than the newer one…..maybe the parts they do install on the boards makes a difference in the over all sound.

lewd2 - 04 February 2010 04:37 PM

Thanks for the advice guys!!! I did the solder across the cracked board and got it to work. Thanks for everyones help. I also noticed that I had purchased another IC (op amp) version and for some reason or another my older one has way more sustain ...feedback and such than the newer one…..maybe the parts they do install on the boards makes a difference in the over all sound.

Most obvious things are the pots and the electrolytics (if there are any on there?). I’d recap it anyway, it’s probably about due and take it from there.
Should be lots of sustain out of that thing.

Hi there everyone ive just joined your forum so hi to everyone and thanks for letting me join.

My name is wayne

I have some sort of bigmuff i bought on ebay had it for years its in dam bits and pieces now i figured if iam to keep it i better find out what ive got and how the hell iam going to fix it its a 3003 board seems to be light pastel green coloured and has an eh in solder etched into it in upper case E H   sustain and volume pots seem to be side mounted that is rather then having all their legs mounted the same side of the board as the tone pot their to the side of the board the pedal has light green and fawn coloured wire the foot switch is an old looking carling switch and the knobs have dakka ware chicago made in usa on their base the pots all have plastic or nylon looking white shafts with brass or metal nuts on them its not a rams head model but is ina big box red lettering electro harmonix made in usa all in black any idea what i have here?

cheers wayne

Liberty Belle - 01 February 2010 04:37 PM

Really kit should have said NOTHING about it IMO! He has inadvertently ruined it for collectors wanting IC muffs.

Hey, don’t blame me. Someone here and someone on the Gear Forum (I think) pointed it out before I did

I blame Billy for releasing that pic.

treble - 07 February 2010 11:12 PM

Hi there everyone ive just joined your forum so hi to everyone and thanks for letting me join.

My name is wayne

I have some sort of bigmuff i bought on ebay had it for years its in dam bits and pieces now i figured if iam to keep it i better find out what ive got and how the hell iam going to fix it its a 3003 board seems to be light pastel green coloured and has an eh in solder etched into it in upper case E H   sustain and volume pots seem to be side mounted that is rather then having all their legs mounted the same side of the board as the tone pot their to the side of the board the pedal has light green and fawn coloured wire the foot switch is an old looking carling switch and the knobs have dakka ware chicago made in usa on their base the pots all have plastic or nylon looking white shafts with brass or metal nuts on them its not a rams head model but is ina big box red lettering electro harmonix made in usa all in black any idea what i have here?

cheers wayne

Hi Wayne. Sounds like you have a V3.
http://www.kitrae.net/music/big_muff_history.html#Version3

treble - 07 February 2010 11:12 PM

any idea what i have here?

Like Kit said v3, ram’s head board with the red/black colours.
It doesn’t work? Post pics…

it looks more like this inside

Than this right?

Hi devnulljp hmmmm yes this board looks like mine but mine is light pastel green in colour also have the dakka ware pointy knobs on my muff

any pics of the other side of the 3003 board that you posted ?

ive just taken some pics of the front and rear of my board, it seems Q1,Q2,Q3.Q4 seem to have a part bc239 fitted to the board the four of these seem loose like someone sometime was trying to repair this muff and never finished the job not sure if these are original or replacement parts but i fear the later

other then this i think it just needs the battery lead re terminated and a new battery foam fitted along with the board getting a good clean and the pots and switches needing some spray lube after that may try and put her back together and see if she works if not then its back to looking into why?

devnulljp its board one not board two

1976 v3 BC239C

1976 v2 PNP w/ 2N5087

1977 v2 w/ BC239C

thankyou so much for the quick reply, ive taken pics of the board front, and back, along with the casing.
its more looking like the ver 3 model, it has the red lettering case not rams head electro harmonix made in the usa on it scratched to buggery, im sure alot are like that now.

its got the dakkaware chicago pointer knobs but both are looking stuffed on the inside.

i think i have the third one somewhere, and now i take a closer look this is what i see on the board c3 c4 c5 c13 have .1uf aec caps c10 c11 c12 have 470 aec caps d2 has something missing
c9 has 100v a-18 c8 has i think .01 its hard to read it

near the 3003 on the board it has a big silver barrel cap that says m235 7515a at c2 1+10 100v

hope thats enough info on whats on the board, i will go check if digital camera has charged enough so i can load the pics hope this is worth saving, i guess i got it about 12 years ago now.

thanks guys

wayne )

the other thing i notice is those square white thinks on the board are not on my board sorry to not know what they are? i have the round discs in place of them similar to whats on volume and tone pots of a stratocaster

treble - 08 February 2010 03:46 AM

the other thing i notice is those square white thinks on the board are not on my board sorry to not know what they are? i have the round discs in place of them similar to whats on volume and tone pots of a stratocaster

They’re just capacitors—all the old muffs have different types. ceramic discs, electrolytics, those big square ones. It doesn’t really matter.

Your pedal is def worth saving.
 
Whatever’s wrong with it, it’s unlikely to take much to fix it. Often replacing the electrolytics will do the trick…or the switch. Those slider switches get grunged up quite often too. That’s a 5 min fix right there. Are you sure the transistors have been messed with ? They normally sit quite high off the board…

Those are great sounding muffs, it’d be a shame to leave it dead in the water.
Send it to Ron to fix up if you don’t make much headway…it’ll be worth it.

Is there any tutorials on how to fix one of these version 3’s are parts available or all gone now an whats my best option with it keep it or dump it for parts im not sure if this is worth it considering things may have been changed or missing whats everyone think ?