I have a Big Muff I bought in the 80’s of which I changed the slide tone switch to a regular foot switch. I then put everything in a clone theory case since it was more sturdy. Now years later I’d like to use the unit BUT various wires have pulled apart from the board and I can’t figure out where to re-connect them. I was hoping someone can tell me which board I have . I haven’t been able to find my version on all the places I’ve looked on the net. Thanks in advance.

v5 op-amp muff w/ tone bypass.
What’s the number on the flip side of the board EHxxxxx
Hard to see much else from the tiny pic though.
EH1322 maybe—I used to have a bunch of those and Kit Rae really likes em.
The v4 non-tone bypass I had was a 3003B board. The other two were v5 TB EH1322 & EH3003. Both of those latter boards wer ealso dropped into little big muff cases in the 70s with a resistor across the pot pads for tone and sustain, leaving only one pot for volume.

The EH3003 and EH1322 op-amp muffs (usually?) had the green mask on the board though. Yours looks brown.

Post bigger/better pics?

EH3003B

EH1322

EH3003 op-amp

Mine is the EH3003 op-amp board with tone by-pass judging from the pictures. I’d include bigger pictures but I don’t know how with the 75kb limit. The wiring and color of the wires seems to be different as well.

Wiring colour never seemed to be a major concern at EHX :D
Same with exact wiring specs.
I have some good pics of that board if you need them for your restoration just let me know what you need.

BTW, for pics you can use http://imgur.com/ photobucket, imageshack, or any of the others.

That’s one of the rare times I have seen a brown board op-amp Muff. There is lots of info on them and pix here. You should be able to see where the wires were originally connected from these or the pix above.
http://www.kitrae.net/music/big_muff_op_amp_history.html#Version4

Doesn’t really matter what the PCB says or copper clad color or if its phenolic or whatever, the circuit is identical other than one has an on/off switch and one has a tonebypass set up.

I’ve seen around five different PCB layouts for both V4 and V5’s but the circuit is identical. Although, like all EH pedals some component values are different here and there, its not an intentional variation, its a mistake (or substitute because of the correct parts not being available)  made by the builder.

I’ve personally traced 2 V4’s and 3 V5’s (real life and foto’s) and what I’ve observed is the circuit is 100% Identical. IMO the V5 is better as it has the tone bypass which is more useful than an on/off switch which is 100% useless to me.

Cool sounding pedals anyways…the IC muffs, I love mine to death!

WHy they bothered making so many different PCB layouts for an identical pedal, I have no idea!!!   The only difference in the TB PCB is a cut trace, if you dont cut the trace it is just a normal non tone bypass pedal…...

I have found a way to upload images ....I might have to do seperate post so you can get an idea of what I have….btw I love my version and have bought two other versions off of ebay that are not like mine both a 3003 and a 3034 board and THEIR is a difference in the sound. How can I re-do my board? As you can see in the pictures it’s cracked.

here is another pic

3034 is a transistor muff—2n5088s usually. The Mudhoney muff.

Here are a few more

last one

Quick question….how can I include the picture in the body of the reply or message like the one’s here.

lewd2 - 31 January 2010 09:06 PM

I have found a way to upload images ....I might have to do seperate post so you can get an idea of what I have….btw I love my version and have bought two other versions off of ebay that are not like mine both a 3003 and a 3034 board and THEIR is a difference in the sound. How can I re-do my board? As you can see in the pictures it’s cracked.

Of course there’s a difference in sound as no two big muffs sound alike! Besides like dev said, the 3034 is a transistor muff and the one you’re posting about now is an IC muff, two totally different things. I have 12 big muffs and not one sounds like the other.
But the schematic,parts values used are 100% identical! (of the IC muffs I mean, yet any two will still sound slightly different)

Thanks for the reply however how can I repair the one I own? I’d like to get rid of the other one’s I have but not until I get this one fixed.

lewd2 - 31 January 2010 10:31 PM

Thanks for the reply however how can I repair the one I own? I’d like to get rid of the other one’s I have but not until I get this one fixed.

Not the best fix, but you can solder across the broken traces on the board so they connect. Past that, you could get the schematic online, some perf circuit board, wire, and put everything on a new board. That’s a lot of work if you have never done this before though.

I would just use some strong glue to glue the split up, then scratch some of the solder mask of the traces (the green coating on the copper) that cross the split because if you dont the solder wont take to it, then solder them up.